I am going to start a running commentary on the construction of a fly rod. As this is only my third attempt at rod construction, do not consider this to be expert commentary or a “how to”. I only want to share some of my thought and experiences along the way.
First, why do I need a new fly rod. (This may be a common question from the spousal unit). Well, need is really subjective. I suppose I could rebuild a Corvair engine with only a 12” adjustable crescent wrench. But it would be easier, more enjoyable, and probably have better results if I also had a set of box end wrenches, a set of open end crescents, a set of sockets, maybe a set of crows foot wrenches, ect, ect. Can you really have too many tools to do a job?
I currently have a 9’ eight weight rod (newly built and yet to be used) with the intention of fishing big flies on big water, like the Delaware for smallmouth and the Youghigheny for trout. I also have an Orvis 8’4’ four weight slow action which is great for smaller streams like the Bushkill or Loyalhanna. The slow action gives it a very soft traditional feel but somewhat limits casting distance. I also have a nice 7’9” three weight with a medium fast action. This overlaps the four weight somewhat (kind of like having both the open end and box end wrenches) but works great on smaller streams since it is light for a good feel but has a faster action so it can throw the fly pretty well. Finally I have a well worn 8’6” five/six weight that I now use as a beater rod. It was a compromise for a beginner rod so it works everywhere, but not real great anywhere.
So what rod do I “need” now. One of my favorite places to stalk trout is the Middle Branch of Mill Creek. Varying from 6 to 10 feet across, with depths of 6’ to 20” (maybe), overhung by hemlock and mountain laurel, filled with logs and boulders, it presents some unique challenges. It also has a healthy supply of native brook trout and lately lots of stocked rainbows (which I totally disagree with but that can be the subject of another blog). There are some small relatively deep pools holding crystal clear water. The trout are always wary, and if you see them dart you might as well move on to the next hole.
With the tangle of underbrush it is always hard to negotiate around the holes. You must carefully decide how to approach each hole from a stealthy angle. Casting is very limited, if you can get it 10 feet out you are just about always good. Also, the fish average about 7-8”, so there is not a lot of fighting once you get a hookup. But latch on to a 12”er and it can feel like he will pull you in.
To solve this problem I decided to build an 8” crescent wrench. Wait, I got my examples confused! I decided to build a very light weight, very short rod. Light weight since the small and very wary fish demand a very soft feel. There is no need for a lot of heft to fight the big ones. Very short just to ease the navigation to and around the holes, plus there is no need at all for any distance casting. There is a compromise here in that a longer rod keeps you farther away from the fish and better hidden. I met an old-timer up there once who said he used to catch 50 to 70 fish in a day using a 12’ rod. Although I contend there is a BS factor there, I took his point about the importance of sneaking up on these fish. Nonetheless, I have had a lot of trouble fishing up there with the 8’4” rod and it always seemed to me shorter would be better. I will just have to emphasize the stealth factor that much more, and use the creeping on hands and knees approach if and when required.
Next – where to get it.