From: Jim Miller
[spinnerman@t-one.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 3:02
PM
To: Campbell, Frank
Subject: Bike Trip---8th Report
Sometime, during the visit, Carl suggested that for
the 50th "someone" (Weaver?) could accompany the bikers, perhaps on Harley Gold
Wings, as an escort and to carry the various paraphernalia for the
trip!!!
Saturday, 8/7---our ROADS SCHOLARS
have a great breakfast with Carl Weaver and Liz Gordon (Liz is a
free lance magazine writer, and kept her name) and hit the pavement. As Roads
(not Rhodes) Scholars, they pass the Einstein Brothers Bagel shop, and
from a knob on Woodlawn Drive, bid adieu to the Rockies and enter a new
experience crossing the Plains. Suddenly, they see "big sky country" where
there are no peaks, and a 360 degree horizon, with grasslands broken
occasionally by a stand of trees that marks an "oasis" of some
kind.
Rolling to Calhan, with more cross/head wind they
pass Coltrane Crossing, one of the historic "cattle crossing" routes, and hit
the Mustang Cafe (a "country western theme--with full wall paintings of the
local favorites) at 11 to refuel on hotcakes and omelets.
Traffic has been primarily local ranchers and
vacationers/campers, and it is HOT! They realize they can now "see the
weather" in front of them, and the roadside herbs of Nevada and Utah have been
replaced by large patches of beautiful Black-Eyed Susans. After Calhan US
24 parallels the Big Sandy River to Limon, and the "silent riders" spooked a
heard of cattle as they rolled to the end of the first really hot day since
they entered the Rockies.
With a choice of 3 motels (operated by Polish,
Chinese and Filipino (Pedro, did I get that right?) families respectively)
they checked in with the Chinese for $45/two. Then, a "new" experience, as they
tried a 24 hour Truck Stop for the AUCE Buffet!!! Confirming the suspicion
that "truckers must eat well", they loaded up (got their first "senior"
10% Discount) and prepared for their last full day in CO!
Sunday, 8/8, and a 7:30 start for an expected
5 1/2 hour (73 mile) run to Burlington on I-70. With a quartering
tailwind, Larry called it a "no chains" ride @ 25k/hr.
("No Chains" is from George Hincapi, long time
friend of Lance Armstrong, and US Postal Team rider--who frequently, when there
seems to be 'no resistance", will ask Lance, "is my chain on?" since pedaling is
so easy with no resistance.)
As they reached Seibert, Larry has a flat, and they
consider should they shift to the Parallel road or continue "innocently" on
I-70. Continuing on 70, a few miles short of Bethune, and 12 miles from
"days end" at Burlington, Larry sees "red flashing lights" right behind Will who
is trailing, and they pull over. Sgt. Trimby of the CO State Police
forcefully berates them for not taking the "legal" parallel CO 24, and follows
to ensure that they take the Bethune off ramp, then watches to see they cross
over I-70 heading North to 24. about 20 minutes later, the County Sheriff
passes going West on 24, and gives them a big "knowing" salute, no doubt as
requested by the Trooper.
They pull into Burlington--it's Sunday--but the
farm supply store is open for Will to get "O" rings to repair his tire pump, and
Larry purchases a $5 "made in China" multifunction watch, and Blue
Stuff, for all to rub the aches and pains.
Would you believe, they met a
couple named Pineau, who live near Carl Weaver, riding a Gold Wing, with color
matching custom trailer, and who were returning from a trip.. After some
discussion, Larry gave them contact info for Weaver----Carl,
you are going to have a visitor!
After Foot-Long Subway sandwiches they rest for
what will be their "longest ride" of the trip.
Monday, 8/9 due to earlier "miscalculation",
this will be a 95 mile/3 state day, starting with breakfast in CO, lunch in KS
and ending in NE---another "first".
After a 30 mile "no chains" ride they reach St.
Francis, KS, and while eating meet an "easterner" who has lived there 8 years,
and describes the ambiance by telling them he hasn't locked the door yet.
Then they hit headwinds, and more of the open range, as they turn North toward
NE.
The "Swedes" marvel at the "openness/friendliness"
of the people they meet---reflecting that "at home 5 people could be at a bus
stop, and never speak"--while now, they meet strangers who greet them, ask about
their trip and destination---and marvel at the "senior citizens on this
trek".
They pass "monuments"---General Custer/7th Cav was here--1867-68 to deal with the
"troublesome Indians" in the "Big Timber" area.
As they reach Benkelman, NE, they find that
many/most restaurants are "closed" on Monday, so they visit the grocery, and fix
a meal in the motel room, and the "long ride" and 3 state day is behind
them.
The area has had 6 years of "drought"--actually,
the irrigation systems that are necessary for good yields have been
"restricted"--but this year rains have come, and
the crops of wheat, corn and hay are doing very well.
Tuesday, 8/10, and 5 hours of headwind en route to
McCook, NE, paralleling the Republican River on US 34. The "lowlight" of
the day was 10 miles of "milled surface" to Stratton--prepared for later
re-surfacing--broken only by riding through 12 wild turkeys (a flock while
hens and "Jakes" are wintering, but a "harem" if females are
following a dominant "Gobbler") who were not the least intimidated by the
brightly clad "silent but shaken" riders.
Later they cross the "old Texas to Ogallala Trail"
that saw the cattle drives North in 1869-85, and read the monument
commemorating the "massacre of 1873". To their surprise, it was the Pawnee
Tribe, attacked by the Dakota Sioux. The Pawnee were under the protection
of the US Military, but received major losses before the Cavalry arrived,
and this event so weakened them that they accepted residence on a
reservation in Oklahoma.
Temps are cool, in the 55 to 60 range (normally
100-105F in August), and they reach the Country Steak Cafe in McCook (El
2706)(named for a "general, they were told--I checked and McCook #1565,
class of 1852, served "frontier duty" from '53 to '57) and the "best buffet
yet!!!" with lasagna, steak, ham chicken---"all the veggies", and a huge and
varied dessert table including bread pudding and tapioca that Larry hasn't seen
since childhood.
Here they were approached and interviewed by Bruce
Crosby, editor of the McCook Daily Gazette, who was alerted to their arrival by
"curious" local citizens.
Wednesday, 8/11, 48F and extra shirts for warmth
and a "no chain" tailwind to lunch in Cambridge (pop 1100). They have
become familiar with and appreciate meeting the "real American country
people" and the presence of the American flag.
Approaching town they see a sign to "take a
walk in Cambridge" and find that there is a health club and a "Major Program" to
promote walking and a healthy lifestyle in this rural area!
After pancakes at the Frontier Cafe, and a "walk" to the Post Office for
stamps--where it was "customer appreciation day" --free donuts and coffee and
greeting by the Post Mistress Mary Wilson, They met the Editor of the Cambridge
Clarion, Joyleen Miller, for an interview and "photo op". Unfortunately
Will had gone ahead, and missed the picture--taken in front of the wall poster
of the US Postal Team.
Continuing, they crossed the Fort MacPherson Trail
(1863-80) as US 6/36 followed the Republican eastward before it turned south to
join the Sappa, and fill the Harlan County Lake. They saw their first
Amtrak train (3 coaches) and then several freight trains (over 100 cars) of the
Burlington/Santa Fe hauling coal, cattle and Tank cars.
A marker noted the Sioux and Cheyenne last visit to
the Buffalo Range along the Republican in 1870, before the land rush post
Civil War changed the face of the territory.
At Atlanta (pop 130) they noted the marker of the
internment facility during WWII where Germans captured in No. Africa and Italy
were held, and did farming during the day. There was only 1 escape from
3000 inmates, and he returned voluntarily several days later. They met Joe
Hurley, a journalist who is walking Route 6 from Provincetown MA to CA,
accompanied by a friend in a car who carries his necessary items. See more @
route6walk.com.
Arriving in Holdredge, NE they stopped at the Pizza
Hut, and while "dining" were approached by Bob King, editor of the Holdredge
Daily Citizen---and began to realize that in some places, this biking trip was
"Big News".
After the "celebrity routine" they turned in at the
Tower Motel---Bob King had informed Will that it was both Motel and "Strip
Club".
CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE PICTURES!!!
Approximately 1800 miles, and "on
schedule"!!
Jim