From: Jim Miller [spinnerman@t-one.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 3:02 PM
To: Campbell, Frank
Subject: Bike Trip---8th Report
Sometime, during the visit, Carl suggested that for the 50th "someone" (Weaver?) could accompany the bikers, perhaps on Harley Gold Wings, as an escort and to carry the various paraphernalia for the trip!!!
 
Saturday, 8/7---our ROADS SCHOLARS have a great breakfast with Carl Weaver and Liz Gordon (Liz is a free lance magazine writer, and kept her name) and hit the pavement. As Roads (not Rhodes) Scholars,  they pass the Einstein Brothers Bagel shop, and from a knob on Woodlawn Drive, bid adieu to the Rockies and enter a new experience crossing the Plains.  Suddenly, they see "big sky country" where there are no peaks, and a 360 degree horizon, with grasslands broken occasionally by a stand of trees that marks an "oasis" of some kind.
 
Rolling to Calhan, with more cross/head wind they pass Coltrane Crossing, one of the historic "cattle crossing" routes, and hit the Mustang Cafe (a "country western theme--with full wall paintings of the local favorites) at 11 to refuel on hotcakes and omelets.
 
Traffic has been primarily local ranchers and vacationers/campers, and it is HOT!  They realize they can now "see the weather" in front of them, and the roadside herbs of Nevada and Utah have been replaced by large patches of beautiful Black-Eyed Susans.  After Calhan US 24 parallels the Big Sandy River to Limon, and the "silent riders" spooked a heard of cattle as they rolled to the end of the first really hot day since they entered the Rockies.
 
With a choice of 3 motels (operated by Polish, Chinese and Filipino (Pedro, did I get that right?) families respectively) they checked in with the Chinese for $45/two. Then, a "new" experience, as they tried a 24 hour Truck Stop for the AUCE Buffet!!!  Confirming the suspicion that  "truckers must eat well", they loaded up (got their first "senior" 10% Discount) and prepared for their last full day in CO!
 
Sunday, 8/8, and a 7:30 start for an expected 5 1/2 hour (73 mile) run to Burlington on I-70.  With a quartering tailwind, Larry called it a "no chains" ride @ 25k/hr.
 
("No Chains" is from George Hincapi, long time friend of Lance Armstrong, and US Postal Team rider--who frequently, when there seems to be 'no resistance", will ask Lance, "is my chain on?" since pedaling is so easy with no resistance.)
 
As they reached Seibert, Larry has a flat, and they consider should they shift to the Parallel road or continue "innocently" on I-70.  Continuing on 70, a few miles short of Bethune, and 12 miles from "days end" at Burlington, Larry sees "red flashing lights" right behind Will who is trailing, and they pull over.  Sgt. Trimby of the CO State Police forcefully berates them for not taking the "legal" parallel CO 24, and follows to ensure that they take the Bethune off ramp, then watches to see they cross over I-70 heading North to 24.  about 20 minutes later, the County Sheriff passes going West on 24, and gives them a big "knowing" salute, no doubt as requested by the Trooper.
They pull into Burlington--it's Sunday--but the farm supply store is open for Will to get "O" rings to repair his tire pump, and Larry purchases a $5 "made in China" multifunction watch, and Blue Stuff, for all to rub the aches and pains.
 
Would you believe, they met a couple named Pineau, who live near Carl Weaver, riding a Gold Wing, with color matching custom trailer, and who were returning from a trip.. After some discussion, Larry gave them contact info for Weaver----Carl, you are going to have a visitor!
 
After Foot-Long Subway sandwiches they rest for what will be their "longest ride" of the trip.
 
Monday, 8/9  due to earlier "miscalculation", this will be a 95 mile/3 state day, starting with breakfast in CO, lunch in KS and ending in NE---another "first".
 
After a 30 mile "no chains" ride they reach St. Francis, KS, and while eating meet an "easterner" who has lived there 8 years, and describes the ambiance by telling them he hasn't locked the door yet.  Then they hit headwinds, and more of the open range, as they turn North toward NE.
 
The "Swedes" marvel at the "openness/friendliness" of the people they meet---reflecting that "at home 5 people could be at a bus stop, and never speak"--while now, they meet strangers who greet them, ask about their trip and destination---and marvel  at the "senior citizens on this trek".
 
They pass "monuments"---General Custer/7th Cav  was here--1867-68 to deal with the "troublesome Indians" in the "Big Timber" area.
 
As they reach Benkelman, NE, they find that many/most restaurants are "closed" on Monday, so they visit the grocery, and fix a meal in the motel room, and the "long ride" and 3 state day is behind them.
 
The area has had 6 years of "drought"--actually, the irrigation systems that are necessary for good yields have been "restricted"--but this year rains have come, and the crops of wheat, corn and hay are doing very well.
 
Tuesday, 8/10, and 5 hours of headwind en route to McCook, NE, paralleling the Republican River on US 34.  The "lowlight" of the day was 10 miles of "milled surface" to  Stratton--prepared for later re-surfacing--broken only by riding through  12 wild turkeys (a flock while hens and "Jakes" are  wintering, but a "harem" if females are following a dominant "Gobbler") who were not the least intimidated by the brightly clad "silent but shaken" riders.  
 
Later they cross the "old Texas to Ogallala Trail" that saw the cattle drives North in 1869-85, and read the monument commemorating the "massacre of 1873". To their surprise, it was the Pawnee Tribe, attacked by the Dakota Sioux.  The Pawnee were under the protection of the US Military, but received major losses before the Cavalry arrived, and this event so weakened them that they accepted residence on a reservation in Oklahoma. 
 
Temps are cool, in the 55 to 60 range (normally 100-105F in August), and they reach the Country Steak Cafe in McCook (El 2706)(named for a "general, they were told--I checked and McCook #1565, class of 1852, served "frontier duty" from '53 to '57) and the "best buffet yet!!!" with lasagna, steak, ham chicken---"all the veggies", and a huge and varied dessert table including bread pudding and tapioca that Larry hasn't seen since childhood.
 
Here they were approached and interviewed by Bruce Crosby, editor of the McCook Daily Gazette, who was alerted to their arrival by "curious" local citizens.
 
Wednesday, 8/11, 48F and extra shirts for warmth and a "no chain" tailwind to lunch in Cambridge (pop 1100).  They have become familiar with and appreciate meeting the "real American country  people" and the presence of the American flag.
 
 Approaching town they see a sign to "take a walk in Cambridge" and find that there is a health club and a "Major Program" to promote walking and a healthy lifestyle in this rural area!  After pancakes at the Frontier Cafe, and a "walk" to the Post Office for stamps--where it was "customer appreciation day" --free donuts and coffee and greeting by the Post Mistress Mary Wilson, They met the Editor of the Cambridge Clarion, Joyleen Miller, for an interview and "photo op".  Unfortunately Will had gone ahead, and missed the picture--taken in front of the wall poster of the US Postal Team.
 
Continuing, they crossed the Fort MacPherson Trail (1863-80) as US 6/36 followed the Republican eastward before it turned south to join the Sappa, and fill the Harlan County Lake.  They saw their first Amtrak train (3 coaches) and then several freight trains (over 100 cars) of the Burlington/Santa Fe hauling coal, cattle and Tank cars.
 
A marker noted the Sioux and Cheyenne last visit to the Buffalo Range along the Republican in 1870, before  the land rush post Civil War changed the face of the territory.
 
At Atlanta (pop 130) they noted the marker of the internment facility during WWII where Germans captured in No. Africa and Italy were held, and did farming during the day.  There was only 1 escape from 3000 inmates, and he returned voluntarily several days later. They met Joe Hurley, a journalist who is walking Route 6 from Provincetown MA to CA, accompanied by a friend in a car who carries his necessary items. See more @ route6walk.com.
 
Arriving in Holdredge, NE they stopped at the Pizza Hut, and while "dining" were approached by Bob King, editor of the Holdredge Daily Citizen---and began to realize that in some places, this biking trip was "Big News".
 
After the "celebrity routine" they turned in at the Tower Motel---Bob King had informed Will that it was both Motel and "Strip Club".
 
CAN'T WAIT TO SEE THE PICTURES!!!
 
Approximately 1800 miles, and "on schedule"!!
 
Jim