As Larry, Will, Hans and Inga-lill reach 2000km, 1/3 of the trip, and the most difficult 1/3 due to the mountains, 2 things become apparent:

Tuesday,7/27, rising in Bicknell, UT for a trek on UT 24 through the Capital Reef National Park, to Hanksville, UT, still without the expected "tailwinds", on a decent at 6500', and it is obvious that at sometime in history this entire area was under water. The geology can only be truly enjoyed by the biker traveling at a slower pace, and the vistas are again magnificent.

Into the small abandoned village of Fruita, with its one room schoolhouse built in 1896 sitting as it was left. Through the windows they see the iron and wood desks with pencils and paper in place, and an unfinished math problem (TAKE BOARDS??) still on the blackboard! On a marker there is a photo of the student body of 1912, and the mention that it closed in 1947. At that moment they are startled by the commotion of a Mule deer munching apples from a tree not more that 30' away.

20 miles downhill to Cainesville (pop 26) and a stop at "Dave's Food Mart", where they are greeted by Randy, in his one room store. Randy has 2 large greenhouses, raising "organic veggies and grain" and bakes many breads daily, delivering from Torrey/Bicknell on the west to Hanksville on the east. He whips up a "super Juice" for Will, containing apples, peaches, tomatoes, squash and several other ingredients including herbs. He shows off his European outdoor oven, and everyone is duly impressed.

Arriving in Hanksville, they find Fern's Place, and for $21 each get a small apartment, with "great amenities"---close by "The Grill", and a salad buffet! Will has become the master of the "one time through" buffet, building a wall around the plate perimeter with chunks of fruit and vegetables, filling the center with salad, and then stacking on the peas and beans held on by the salad dressing chosen for its adhesive characteristics.

Larry says they are making the trip for about $1200/mo in expenses. Will says he is down from 200# to 190. with a goal of 180# by WP. Inga doesn't reveal weight, but acknowledged that she has lost 2" in the waist---Larry says she still goes faster downhill than Hans, who is carrying most of their gear.

Wed, 7/28 and 95km to Green River (note they are off the original route because Fry Canyon Lodge was closed for July). By this time, the "Swedes" are convinced that "everything in the US is BIG"---the open spaces, the people, the meals, the sights and vistas they enjoy, the smells/fragrances and the winds!

They do 13 miles on I-70, which is described as a "bone rattling", horrible road---particular for an Interstate---not like the Autobahn, they report!

In Green River they find a melon stand, which was nectar at the end of the day. They checked into the local Motel 6, and attacked the Tamarish restaurant, with, would you believe, a salad buffet--and were seated by the picture window overlooking the Green River.

Thursday, 7/29, from Green River 15 miles on I-70 again to Crescent Junction, and south on UT 191 to Moab. I-15 continues to be horrible road, and when they hit UT 191 they are overwhelmed by the traffic, as they skirt Arches National Park. The 18 wheelers are flying both directions, and they learn that this is the "main line" North-South to Mexico! With Canyonlands National Park to their SW, they descend crossing the Colorado River into Moab---at 4000"---recognized as the "Mountain Biking Capital of the World!!! There are 8 excellent bike shops, and they check in with "Andy", a Mormon, who owns/operates the Moab Cyclery---and is an excellent mechanic.

The clerk at the melon stand in Green River had told them about the "slick rock" around Moab, and that she had recently lost her front teeth riding there. They saw the famous rock, with roads made by cutting grooves in the rock to keep wagons from sliding sideways off the road, and sometimes building up the outside edge to widen the track to allow passage---it was tough traveling for the pioneers, and tough sport for today's daredevil.

Friday, 7/30, originally scheduled as a rest day, is now a "make up day", and a half day ride to La Sal Jct on UT 191 then East on UT 46 toward the CO border. They pass Hole in the Rock on 191, that was a turn of the century "oasis" with shade and spring water on the route from Sante Fe to CA.

On UT 46 they again have some "quiet" traveling, ascending on open plain to 7300' to La Sal, with a Post office and a General Store (pop 600). They start to see a variety of trees---juniper, oak cedar and others that they haven't seen for weeks, and checked into the La Sal Guest Ranch---3 bedrooms, with kitchen, and open seating area, and a great porch. So far in the boonies that there is no TV or cell phone coverage. The remoteness required that after 6th grade, youngsters who continued were transported daily for several hours to Monticello, 31 miles South of La Sal Jct.

They went to the Gen'l Store (Will popped a brew and sat down in one of the two booths---and was invited to finish it "outside" while shopping progressed)

for cukes, tomatoes, garbanzo and kidney beans and other salad makings and feasted on the open porch. They read the family history, and the owner (Andy Redd) came to visit and told them about growing up there with "40 hands working" to run the ranch---now, with modern tech, the same ranch produces with 3 people! The history relates stories of the harsh winter snows, and the struggle for survival.

Again they hear "rumors" that an open pit copper mine will reopen, with the accompanying gold and silver finds expected. They spent the evening on the porch watching the swallows at sunset, and the BIG STARS in an unpolluted sky.

Saturday, 7/31, a long switchback ascent to 7600 feet and then a similar decent---and the experience of surprising prairie dogs and other animals who are not familiar with the "Silent Bikes"--and back to the 5 car/truck/hour local traffic. They pass a marker, advising that in 1776 (while some guys back East were dumping tea in the harbor) two Franciscans( Dominiquez and Escalante) covered 2000 miles exploring this area in Utah, looking for a route from Sante Fe to the missions in Monterrey, CA. They were the first Europeans (Spaniards) to explore this area!

Suddenly, without warning, a significant pavement change requiring them to slow down, then stop to figure it out! They look back and see a beautiful sign with skiers welcoming tourists to Utah---but there is no similar sign announcing Colorado---and Inga wonders if "they are not welcome". They are now on CO 90!

They proceed through Paradox on open range to Bedrock, and meet the Postmistress who serves 50 souls, cross the Delores(a trib of the Colorado) and cruise through Vancorum to Naturita (pop 400)for a banana break.

This area was a Uranium mining center(with the town of Nucla) just to the north, and the peleton wonders if anyone may know about the mining in the area, or any "military operations related to nuclear development that may have been here?"

Norwood has three motels, one full, one closed so they stay in an "authentic 1898" building, with warped floors and walls, and a "clawfoot" tub---buy a modern shower!

A trip through the local buffet/salad bar, where they enjoyed the first "corn on the cob" of the trip, and then the Saturday evening "rock concert" in the town square. The audience was varied, from full bearded locals to tattooed/ponytailed bikers(Harley type) and the entertainment included "beer and Bar-B-Q" til dusk.

Sunday, 8/1, a climb out of Norwood and the "silent foursome" surprised a herd of deer grazing on the shoulder of CO145 and watch as about 12 does glide gracefully over a barbed wire fence with the Buck watching until each was over and then he bounded effortlessly from a standing start to follow.

They descend parallel to the San Miguel River to Placerville and experience the "rushing water of a more familiar Alpine setting" and see more of the trees that they had not been in the desert areas. Then east on CO62 through the Dallas Divide at 8970'---Larry thinks the "25th col" of the trip---and a decent into Ridgeway.

Ridgeway is "famous" for the John Wayne movie TRUE GRIT, and they had a "great breakfast" at the True Grit Cafe with the ever popular pancakes, eggs, toast. The "set" of the movie is still recognizable, and the walls of the cafe are covered with memorabilia.

Just east of town they cross the Uncompahgre River and turn north on US550 for 14 miles along the river to Montrose, and the Red Barn Cafe. Will claims sighting a Brown Bear scrambling up a hillside, and they celebrate 2000 km, 1/3 of the trip, and still no tailwind.