- OUR FIJI TRIP -

During the period 18-30 May, 2004, Karen and I took a trip to Fiji to attend the wedding of a daughter of some very good friends, Jerry and Mary Joyce May. Their daughter, Heidi, went to Fiji on a Christian mission. She met a Fijian man; they fell in love, became engaged and were married on 22 May. We also did a week of SCUBA-diving on the island of Beqa (pronounced m-ben-ga). Trip pictures will follow after a brief discussion of our activities.

We left Albuquerque and Los Angeles on 18 May in the late evening and arrived in Nadi, Fiji, 10.5 hours later on 20 May, at a little after 5:00 in the morning. After clearing immigration and customs we were greeted by Uma, our taxi driver, for the transfer to the Lagoon Resort (where the wedding would be held) in the town of Pacific Harbour. After about a three hours drive on the Queen's Highway we were finally there and totally exhausted. We rested a little and then Uma took us to meet the Mays in Suva, about a 45 min. ride. After an informal wedding rehearsal and dinner, we were returned to the Lagoon Resort by Uma, but now the ride seemed about 17 hours.

Thankfully the next day was totally restful as the wedding participants came to us at the Lagoon, rather than vice versa. Karen and I walked into Pacific Harbour and accomplished the required shopping and then returned to the resort to help with wedding preparations. This was a day without Uma.

On 22 May, 2004, in an impressive, joyous, and Christian ceremony, held on the grounds of the Lagoon Resort and starting at 2:00pm (actually about 2:35pm Fijian time), Heidi Clara May was wed to Christian Naidu. A reception in the resort meeting hall followed immediately with a banquet that was absolutely outstanding!

On 23 May, our trusted manservant and faithful taxi driver, Uma, picked us up for transfer to the Pacific Harbour pier and ultimate transfer to the Beqa Lagoon Resort (formerly the Marlin Bay Resort). [These resorts seem to be hung up on using "Lagoon" in the title somewhere.] After a 25-minute boat ride we stepped off the launch into Paradise...but Paradise with overcast skies which hung on for most of the week. After a mandatory welcome drink and a short briefing we went to our beachfront bure and our diving vacation began.

Now all the days merge together so I will hit only the high points.

First of all Beqa Island is the "Island of Firewalkers", the only place in Fiji where firewalking is traditionally done. There are 9 villages on the island and everybody knows everybody else. Two of the villages are close to our resort (there are two other resorts on the island); just north of us was RaviRavi and just south was Rukua. Rukua was bigger, but RaviRavi had the local school (1st-8th grades), which we toured, but only after an entertaining singing and dancing presentation by the school children. Children must go to the main island of Viti Levu for higher education. The resort personnel were mostly from those two villages and were all multi-talented as singers, dancers, and workers. It's nothing special for them - it's just part of their customs and traditions.

I'll first talk about non-diving activities. You could walk to a waterfall, which was a delightful experience for you and all the mosquitoes lying in wait along the path. You could walk to either, or both, villages, by yourself or with a guided "tour group". You could go sea-kayaking or snorkeling. You could have a gazillion and one uses for a coconut tree explained to you and demonstrated for you; you could attend a kava ceremony (like drinking mildly-intoxicating dishwater, in accordance with some serious hand-clapping protocols and chugging rules), and you could experience the singing and dancing demonstrations by the local villagers. You could even hang out in your own private hammock for two, sleeping or reading. There was even deep-sea fishing. Then there was the SCUBA-diving...

I am NOT a terribly experienced diver, but I have dived a few places and seen a few things, but NEVER the likes of the fish and sea life as we saw and photographed in the Beqa Lagoon (the resort was renamed after the lagoon we dove in). The color and variety of the sea life was breath-taking! The photographs below will never do it justice! Instead of diving reef walls, as in Cozumel and Belize, we dove huge coral heads, equally as impressive. In most cases there was a mild current to swim in (fight or enjoy, depending on which way you were going); in one or two cases it was significant and truly affected the quality of the dive. If anything could have been a tad better, it was the visability, which was nominally about 50 ft.; I was expecting double that.

Here are the sites we dove:

The dive routine was to leave in the morning at 8:00am and stay out until both dives and the surface interval were completed. The surface interval was normally taken in the boat, although the first day we moored close to Yanuca Island and swam ashore to look for shells on the beach. Normally we got back to the resort between 12:30pm and 1:30pm, just in time for lunch. The Shark Dive at Aqua 3-D was mostly a bust. Although some large nurse and bull sharks visited the feed area, the visibility was severely limited by all the other fish taking advantage of the free chow and the feeding frenzy refuse in the water. Pictures of sharks were largely impossible to take. In general, our dives were as deep as we normally go, but the average dive depth was much less, as we spent so much time at 25' or less, where all the neat sea life was. Getting into decompression time trouble was not an issue.

A couple more comments are in order before the pictures:

First, there is no pier or dock at Beqa Lagoon Resort, so the drill everyday was to wade out to a small launch to be transferred to the dive boat moored further out in the cove. This was done in reverse order at dive's end. This includes both the diving excursions AND the arrivals and departures, so a resort guest arriving from the mainland in their best slacks and Gucci loafers could be taken unawares.

Second, the food at the resort was exquisite! Lala, the Fijian chefstress, cooking in a mumu and bare feet, prepared food that was beyond compare, not only in food quality, but in food presentation. Talk about FRESH fish and fruit! Her desserts were to DIE for!

Here are my photos. There are photos of the Lagoon Resort, of the Beqa Lagoon Resort and then of the underwater flora and fauna of the Beqa Lagoon dive sites. Click on the thumbnail to see the larger photo. You can navigate through the photos on the thumbnails or the large photo pages, however, you can only navigate back to the "Fiji Trip" page or to the other photo pages from the thumbnail page.

Photos of Lagoon Resort, Pacific Harbour, Fiji.
Photos of Beqa Lagoon Resort, Beqa Island, Fiji.
Photos of Beqa Lagoon Sea Life.


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Copyright © 2003, by Kenneth C. Kvam
Revised: 17 June 2004
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