Learning the "lingo"--to touring cyclists climbing to/through a mountain pass is an achievement. The pass is called a "COL"--and the committed bikers keep a log of their "cols", reporting their achievements to an International organization, and get recognition in an annually printed catalog when they reach 100 cols.

I was impressed when Larry advised that Will is a member, having more than 35o "cols". Larry then acknowledged under interrogation, that he has more than 3000. I believe was the first American (and there first Swiss) to achieve that goal--which then informed/reminded me that he carries 2 passports, which will be a story for another time.

In the area of the Carson Pass(8800') they met a 70 year old biker who suggested a route to Luther Pass/Echo Summit, described as "a vista to live for" -- the manna of a touring lifestyle. So Will and Larry went north, and Hans and Inge-lill headed on to Minden to have their bikes regeared for the kind of climbing that was being experienced. Apparently, the European climbs, with frequent switchbacks, do not require the "lower gearing" needed for this trip.

Larry and Will came around the South end of Lake Tahoe, heading to Carson City to meet the Swedes. By this time, all the news was the fires in the area, particularly in Spooner Pass, en-route to Carson City.

They detoured through Daggett Pass (7300') to avoid the smoke in the lungs--and found that it had been a TOLL ROAD in the 1870's, charging $17.50 for the passage of a stagecoach. The decent was a "steep mother" reaching 50 mph bringing them to Genoa, the first settlement in Nevada, and the oldest saloon--where they met 35 year old Chris Biggs of Darien, CT, who is on a 3 month "charity" crossing raising funds for the Lance Armstrong Cancer Foundation. He is a "big fella" with way too much gear to carry, and "the boys" counseled him on what to ship home.

As they proceeded to Carson City, they watched 25 to 30 tankers and a multitude of helicopters dropping water and chemicals to fight the fires. A windshift helped, and it moved away from Carson City.

Friday they got an early start (usually on the road between 6 and 7) to "beat the heat". The temp is up to 90 and no shade--lots of scrub growth and tumbleweeds. They passed "Stage Coach" and at mid morning they stopped at Silver Springs for breakfast at "Pipers Casino" for the AUCE buffet--a staple in Nevada. This stretch is the "pony express route" we remember from the cowboy movies of the 40's and 50's, with the only man made mark on the landscape being the road and the telephone poles. Then, they experienced their first "mirage"--a lake in the distance--which turned out to be the Lahotan Reservoir, an oasis at the end (their beginning) of the desert. By now they are in "Paiute/Shoshone" territory, becoming more familiar with Native America.

Before reaching Fallon, they passed RAGTOWN, so called because at this point the horses of the wagontrains got their first smell of water (the Lahotan) and bolted, leaving the travelers to shed clothing during the trek to catch up!

They reached Fallon, where they practiced their ritual of finding a Subway Shop, a Pizza Hut Buffet, or some Nevada AUCE buffet to restock the CARBS! Friday evening they enjoyed an "All Indian Rodeo", a Championship event with entrants from surrounding states--roping, bronco busting, bull riding--and the highlight being the "MUTTON BUSTING"--youngsters riding Rams in competition.

Saturday was a rest day, after 7 consecutive days of riding, and they enjoyed the costumed parade, part of the weekend Rodeo event. They stocked up on trail mix, bananas and granola--which is usually their early morning nourishment as they hit the road.

Sunday, they saw in the distance then passed SAND MOUNTAIN, rising from the desert floor--considered sacred by the Paiutes--and currently an archeological dig. They visited Fairview--a ghost town now, that in 1905 boasted 27 saloon, schools and churches, and a population of more than 10,000 up to the bust in 1912. The mining yielded $6 million in gold and silver in that span.

Then still on US 50, through Drumm Pass and a stop at Middlegate where they claim--Population 17, Elevation 4500', middle of nowhere! Larry confirms it appears to be the "loneliest road in America". It is/has become known to "adventure cyclists" as a waypoint, and they had a great breakfast of pancakes and "all the fixings"' before Will went to the BAR--where he met Greg morrow, AFA '73, and flying a helicopter for the Nevada Department of Natural Resources (or equivalent). He was from the Twin cities (MPLS/ST.PAUL), a recruited hockey player and he and Larry shared many memories. They will meet up again in Ely later this week.

Leaving Middlegate, still on US 50, they observed that it is a "saddle in the hills", with landmarks known as Eastgate, Middlegate and Westgate that were prominent/significant to the migrating pioneers of the 1800's.

Then a major climb with many switchbacks to Carroll Summit at 7452' and a decent on the South side in a pine forest, the first they have seen recently. On through a canyon, plain and dry lake, through a RR pass at 6400' an into Austin, at a summit. They again met Chris Biggs.

Austin, in the Toiyabe Mountains, boasts 180 people, 3 motels, 2 gas station/restaurants, and perhaps 8 or 9 High School grads per year. The International Cafe, serving since 1863 is midway between Virginia City and Salt Lake City, the center of Nevada, and had 10,000 people in the 1860 silver rush.

They arrived in Austin early in the afternoon, fortunately, and then experienced a major windstorm, sheets of rain, thunder and lightening--something that the locals say "never happens" in the area!